Getting Settled Back in Ann Arbor

Ann Arbor is one of my favorite places. It definitely holds a special place in my heart having graduated high school and college here, plus my mother still lives in town, but it really is one of the BEST "small' towns in the country. I think after my medevac I'll have to write post of all there is to do and my favorite spots. I've discovered some new ones since our arrival so I need more time to thoroughly research. So far I'm really fortunate that friends from Chicago came to visit/help our first weekend, that our nanny arrived from Riyadh, and that my mother is here to loan me her car as well as spend time with The Gents when she's not working...and J arrives this weekend!

Surprising to me, our time here has been busier than imagined. We moved into our apartment almost two weeks ago and I feel like I've been going non-stop since our arrival - doctor appointments, grocery runs, getting some items to make this new place a little more comfortable and nesting for baby girl. Being productive is a wonderful feeling, but now being almost 38 weeks along, my bed with new linens is like a siren beckoning me...as is the TV with all of the on-demand content I've missed this last year! I kind of just want to lay in bed (so much respect to women who work up until giving birth AND chase kids around), but these boys need activity and stimulation. Most importantly, I want them to feel more settled and secure before baby girl arrives and their world turns upside down. 

I'm getting C&R into a new routine, that seems to be working well. There is a park a block away that they spend a lot of time at and a pool steps away so they're staying on top of their swim skills. This morning we got to the downtown branch of the library for a very entertaining morning story time and followed by lunch on Main St. I discovered some restaurants where kids eat free! Now to add in a day to go to the Hands On Museum and we'll have a nice weekly schedule. 

What's been a particularly special treat is going to the farmers' market. There are actually a number of them around town throughout the week so it's always possible to get really fresh, in-season fruit and veg. We just finished strawberry season so I think I got the last in-season strawberry rhubarb pie. YUM. And having an abundance of gorgeous peaches, super sweet blueberries, and so many beautiful varieties of tomatoes is wonderful! It's simple things like this that make me appreciate the US, and Michigan so much more. Definitely something I want to make sure our children are exposed to, learn, and appreciate about their food. 

It's not even September/fall yet, which means football season, fresh donut eating and apple picking are still to come! Can't wait to share more with you all soon. xo

Mentally Preparing For My Medevac

It’s pretty quiet here in Riyadh. The wind down of the school year, Ramadan, Eid, and the heat has sent a lot of the mothers and children packing. Most take the summer to go visit their families back home or travel. It’s also a transition time of year when people leave for other posts.

In just over a week we’ll be leaving for our first R&R back to The States (finally!). I will be staying on for my medevac to deliver the baby, The Gents in tow. This is the longest stretch of time I’ve ever been away from family so I’m more than ready to get back for an extended period. Not going to lie, I’ve been a little jealous as friends here have been leaving and posting pics of freedom on Instagram.

Before I got pregnant I really didn’t think we’d spend more than an R&R (3 weeks) back home. If a mother isn’t working, I can see why she would take the entire summer break. The challenges of Riyadh are especially hard for children. Kids need to be outside, burning off energy. Once the temperature crept past 100 degrees our playgroup disbanded. It’s hard to get The Gents to play outside, first thing in the morning and in the shade, longer than 15 minutes. This summer they’ll be able to run outside on green grass any time of day they want, won’t be exposed to 110+ degree heat and residual dust from sandstorms.

The positives come without a little stress though. First, packing for me and the boys for 3+ months, spanning two Midwest seasons, is a bit overwhelming. Then there is all the gear – car seats, stroller, and cribs; and the long haul flight. Oh and don’t forget about baby girl! I’ll be shipping some items we used early on with C&R to make the first month+ a little easier on me.

J will be there for R&R, but he has to come back to Riyadh for work. Hopefully he’ll make it back in time for the delivery (fingers crossed because I’m getting nervous about this!), but at the very least he’ll be able to take a couple weeks of paternity leave to be with us. The baby and I won’t get medically cleared to fly back to Riyadh until 6 weeks post delivery.

This impending time apart is what I’m dreading the most. Sure we dealt with a long distance relationship while he was in Virginia and I was still in Chicago, but I’m already getting sad about it. Not only do I miss him terribly when we’re apart, but The Gents do, too. 

J had to travel last week and was gone for five days. On the fourth day I was playing with the boys in their play area. C heard the front door open and said, “Dad?” as he started to run to the door. It was our nanny. He handled the disappointment well, but my heart sank for him.

On the plus side, it’s hard to imagine a better place to spend the summer – between Chicago and Michigan – surrounded by family and friends. I’m thrilled our family will have so much time with the boys. I know they miss us all so much. It’s going to be a really special time, finishing up this pregnancy back home. I’m grateful I’m able to deliver this baby in The States and have The Gents with me for it all. So yeah it’s a little bittersweet to be separated form J, but there is a huge upside. I’m thrilled to be coming HOME, again.

Maldives

This was kind of an unexpected trip. We weren’t really planning on taking another big vacation until 2019, before we’re set to leave Riyadh. When we realized I was pregnant, and factoring in having a newborn plus twin toddlers in tow, we thought “Wouldn’t it be nice to have one last really memorable trip with just the four of us?” And we could make it a baby moon! The timing worked to celebrate our anniversary as well. Perfect.

So, what made us choose the Maldives for this trip? For the ease of travel with The Gents, we really wanted to go somewhere with a direct flight from Riyadh. There are a lot of options, but we wanted to get out of the Middle East. To Male it’s just over four hours.

We certainly could have gone to Europe. Now being 5 months pregnant I knew I was not keen on the idea of running all over a city with twin toddlers and having to plan every detail. Plus, where’s the fun is a Michelin starred restaurant if you can’t have the wine pairings?! ;)

It seems like nearly everyone J works with in KSA has been to the Maldives. We’ve never done a beach vacation together. The thought of lounging on an island and having someone arrange plans for us was idyllic.

Oh! And we could just make it in time before the monsoon season starts. The best time to visit the Maldives is between November and April. The high season falls between December and March, which is when things are more expensive. The monsoon season runs from May to October, peaking around June. 

Factoring in all of this above, the Maldives was a no brainer. It’s a place I always dreamed of going to, but it’s really long and expensive trip from the US. It been on my bucket list, but I never really thought we’d be able to vacation there. I actually got a little emotional when our seaplane landed on Niyama, probably hormonal, but this place is so special and you feel it immediately.

We were literally in a jungle. Sure, there are all of the modern amenities available so we didn’t rough it. There is something about being surrounded by pure nature for five days - seeing lizards and hermit crabs, hearing birds and the ocean breaking, taking showers outside, feeling saltwater, stars shining bright diamonds, and the moonlight on skin. It’s grounding and makes you appreciate nature even more.

Below is a pretty detailed recap of the trip and the resort. We’re so glad we were able to make this dream adventure a reality. It truly was a luxury experience. Although J promised me that we’d be back one day, I’m not sure we would have been able to do this had we not been living in the Middle East. And for that I’m grateful. xo…

Transit – We flew Saudia direct to Male International Airport and then a 45 minute seaplane via Maldivian Aero direct to Niyama. There are a ton of islands/atolls to stay on so the seaplane or ferry time from Male varies. The seaplanes don’t operate after 3:30 in the afternoon because they would be flying into the sunset and returning in the dark. Depending on when you arrive in Male, be prepared that you might have to stay a night on the capital island. When you book your flight and resort be sure to communicate with the resort so they know your flight details and can arrange your transportation accordingly.

Safety side note for parents – we used the KidsFly Safe CARES Airplane Safety Harness with The Gents on the Saudia leg. It was so nice to not have car seats! Overall experience was 50/50. C actually did really well with it. He’s less of a wiggle worm than R, who just can’t sit still for long. C also does a better job of not slouching when seated so the harness stayed in place on him. And they’re now both clever enough to know how to work a seat belt, so they often unlatched themselves. There is no way a convertible car seats would ever fit on the seaplane seat so if you’re thinking of bringing your toddler, save yourself some trouble and get the harness. On the seaplane they just used the lap belt and were fine with it. Children under two can sit on your lap on the seaplane.

Male – since we arrived to Male in the afternoon, right when the last seaplane was leaving, we booked a night at Hotel Jen. A representative picked us up from the airport island and we took a five minute boat ride to the capital island where a van was waiting to drive us a few blocks to the hotel. There are a lot of hotel options. It’s a small island so nearly all restaurants are in walking distance. We even walked to dinner with The Gents, sans stroller because the sidewalks are pretty narrow and tough to navigate with it. Was good for them to walk a bit since they’d been on a plane most of the day.

Important cultural note – Maldives is a Muslim country. Even with it being incredibly hot and humid you’ll notice that most women are covered head to toe or dressed modestly. Men also wear pants. You will hear call to prayer when you’re out. Some friends of ours visited the Maldives on their honeymoon and she had said that she felt uncomfortable dressed in Western weather appropriate clothing as she got a number of looks from people. Since we were flying out of Saudi, J and I both had our legs covered and wore short sleeve shirts. Although we were uncomfortably hot when we landed, we didn’t feel inappropriate. On the resorts you can wear whatever you want!

Hotel Jen coordinated with Niyama to know what time our seaplane was leaving Male the following morning and ensured our transport back to the airport. At the airport, a rep from Niyama was waiting to check us in on our flight and then put us on a shuttle to the seaplane terminal where we waited in the Niyama lounge until the flight as ready to board. I had heard that the friendliness and service here was impeccable. We weren’t even at the resort yet and I was already impressed with all of the escorts and handlers we had at this point, which were at least five different people just that morning.

Niyama – we arrived at Niyama Private Islands just after 8am. It was an early start to the day, but wonderful to take advantage of the full day at the resort. As we stepped off the seaplane we were greeted by staff members, a cool towel and juice cocktail. Each couple/family is assigned a person/concierge who takes care of them for their stay. Mahey introduced himself to us and walked us to a golf cart to give us a quick tour before taking us to our villa. The resort is set on two small islands, with a connecting bridge. Restaurants, shops, gym, and spa are nestled into the grounds.

We opted to reserve a beach studio with pool, rather than one over the water. If you have small children you have to sign a waver to stay over the water. For peace of mind and less stress of having to hover over the boys, the beach was more than fine! And we were really happy that we got a room with a pool. It made for an even more relaxing experience. We could go down to the beach for a bit and once The Gents got tired of the ocean (it was work for them!) they could splash in our private pool. Also nice to be near their beds when it was nap time. The resort had cribs/playards that they set up in the room. The studios are situated so that they’re very private, with wood fences and trees surrounding each. We rarely heard or saw anyone on either side of us. Beach cruisers are provided to easily get around and ours came with kid seats. C&R loved their bike rides with us. And it was a bit of a workout for me. If only my balance wasn't so off being 5 months along. HA!

There are SO many resorts to choose from, but there aren’t many luxury resorts with a kids club that will take children under 3 without a parent or traveling nanny present. It’s $20/hour for kids under 3, but totally worth it when the boys needed to let of some steam or J and I wanted some quiet time. We never dropped them there for more than an hour, so it wasn’t a big expense. What we did take advantage of was the babysitting services in the evening. By the time the evenings came the boys got a bit unruly at dinner - being tired from the long day, dealing with a two hour time difference and being out in the heat makes a less than enjoyable experience for all. An early dinner, movie in our air-conditioned room and a cool bath made up their evening so J and I could have a few dinner dates.

Speaking of dinners, the restaurants are really well done. The only one we didn’t eat at was Edge. SubSix was a really cool underwater experience, but it was topped by dinner high in the trees at Nest. They had a crab pre fixe dinner one evening that was phenomenal! Honestly, one of the best meals we've ever had. Take advantage of all of the fresh grilled fish and seafood, shashimi, and anything else that’s a special for the day. You won’t be disappointed.

And last, but not least to note is the Maldives is a playground for people who love water sports. I think most people definitely go for diving and surfing. We don’t dive, and clearly I couldn’t surf, kite surf or parasail, but there’s still so much to enjoy even if you’re not into any of these activities! On our last day we at least got out for a private breakfast dhoni cruise with The Gents. It was beautiful and the perfect way to cap off this wonderful week.

Abu Dhabi

I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned this before that you can get antsy being in Riyadh too long. I often feel limited in our movement (have to be driven, must wear an abaya, trips are planned around prayer times, etc.) and in the variety of what’s available to us (no good Mexican food, can’t go see a movie, not really any museums, etc.). I go through periods when I’d rather not leave the DQ, so I end up feeling like a bit of a recluse. And J works a lot here, often with long hours, so he’s been in need of a break for a while. Plus, we’re surrounded by people who are constantly traveling so when we’re not we get a little FOMO. While we’re living here, we want to see as much of the region as we can. Bahrain is so nice and easy to travel to since it’s an only drive away, but it’s time to hop on a plan and see something new. Which brought us to Abu Dhabi.

You might be asking, why Abu Dhabi over Dubai? In US comparisons, it’s probably like going to West Palm Beach vs. South Beach. For us we just wanted something really chill. We definitely want to check out Dubai though so maybe we’ll go for a long weekend sometime soon.

When we travel we keep things pretty loose. We don’t plan out our days, but rather make a list of priorities when it comes to sightseeing and eating, then just tick things off as we go. Being flexible and agile, especially with kids, makes for much less stress. I’m so lucky to have married someone with the characteristics I love in a travel companion.

That being said, we wanted to see the Grand Mosque, go to the Louvre, check out Emirates Palace, spend a day at Saadiyat Island and take The Gents to Legoland. As for restaurants, there wasn’t anything we HAD to eat at. There are a lot of nice places, especially around our hotel, so we knew we’d eat really well. J has some colleagues who are posted at the Embassy there so we wanted to see them as well. One of them was so kind to let us borrow her nanny for a couple evenings so we could get out on our own. A Godsend! Unfortunately The Gents both had tummy issues ALL week and there were sand storms/high winds 2 of the 5 days we were there. The only thing we didn’t do was go to Saadiyat Island. All in all, it was a really successful trip. These kids are troopers and they never cease to amaze me.

There is definitely more in Abu Dhabi than we took advantage of. We would love to have gone to Ferrari World but C&R couldn’t have gone on any of the rides, which would have meant that J and I would be taking turns. It was even tough for them to get the full Legoland experience, but we did all that was allowed. There are also sailing trips and more Middle Eastern culture to take in. Having toddlers limits some activities anywhere you go though. When they’re a little older it will be easier, so for now we make the most of all we can.

One additional note, I was really impressed with the level of service and catering to children everywhere we went. Abu Dhabi seems very family-oriented, which makes sense with the number of expats livings there. Everywhere we went there were small children and restaurants always had enough highchairs and crayons. Staff in shops and restaurants always stopped to interact with The Gents. It was really sweet.

If you're thinking of visiting, don't hesitate to reach out with questions. Here’s a quick rundown of our week…

STAY

Rosewood Abu Dhabi – we’re big fans of the Rosewwood since we stayed there for an extended period before we left DC. The hotel and rooms are gorgeous, the amenities are great and service is impeccable. They have kids services as well, including a kid’s club and nannies for hire. When we arrived cribs were already set-up. There was a mini pop-up castle in our room, with gift bags for The Gents, as well as children’s toiletries. Cookies, other sweet treats and milk were waiting for us when we arrived.

SEE

Grand Mosque – come completely covered (hair, shirt to wrists and pants to ankles) in regular clothing or an abaya, unless you want to wear a loaner abaya. Also be prepared that you will be walking barefoot as soon as you enter the mosque. I had never been in a mosque before so I had no clue.

Legoland Dubai – we had a lot of fun and we were surprised with Dubai Parks, which also included Motiongate, Bollywood and Riverland. The surrounding area of theme parks was also a pleasant surprise with all sorts of Western chain restaurants to make you feel back at home.

Emirates Palace – this used to be an actual palace so you can imagine how grand it is. We didn’t spend a lot of time here and it was in the evening so we could see much. The grounds were rolling and immaculate. A friend later showed us pics of a hotel room she had been in and it was jaw dropping. We walked around a bit after our Haakasan dinner. The shops are luxe and geared towards Emiraties. I had fun just looking at the Rolex watches that you’d never see anywhere else with leopard print brands, swirling diamond designs in the bracelet and ombre gemstone bezels.

Louvre Abu Dhabi – I’m so impressed with this place. Not only are the grounds and building an architectural delight, the pieces on rotation are incredibly special. You don’t get to see these types of works often. The art history lover in me was swooning.

EAT

Leopold’s of London – an easy breakfast spot for good coffee and tasty simple breakfast. We usually had croissant, muffins and yoghurt, but they have some nice plated breakfasts and salads. Also got chicken nuggets and pasta for the gents in evening.

Rosewood Aqua (breakfast buffet) – pricey, but has everything you could need.

Loco – what a treat to have Mexican food! We both got chicken enchiladas, something we haven’t eaten in a very long time. The boys had grilled shrimp and nachos.

Prego’s – an Italian spot, known for their pizzas. You can also get some really nice cheeses and PORK charcuterie!

Bentley’s Kitchen – I felt like I was in a London gastro pub. Good comfort food. We both got burgers and shared with C&R.

Haakasan – when I found out there was one here I was really excited because this is a favorite place of mine in London. Even though the original chef has sold of the global chain, the food is still great and did not disappoint.

Dai Pai Dong – they serve all you can eat dim sum during lunch hours!

Butcher & Still – intended to be a traditional Chicago style steakhouse, we were in awe of the aesthetics of the restaurant (think of every art deco leather Restoration Hardware piece you can imagine) and authentic quality of food. This place made me homesick for Chicago, but filled my craving for a bone-in filet, and wedge salad.

Roberto’s – we celebrated Valentine’s here with The Gents. For being a white tablecloth restaurant I was impressed that there was a kids menu. They noshed on calamari fritti and pizza margherita, while J enjoyed black truffle risotto and I had the fusilli cacio e pepe con ragu, which I want to replicate.

SHOP

The Galleria – we spent a lot of time in this ultra high-end mall. The only designer missing was Chanel. No, I didn’t buy anything (other than restocking on French skincare products) but it was nice to look and get some ideas. The mall is situated between the Rosewood and Four Seasons, on the waterfront, with restaurants dotting  the waterfront path.

Yas Mall – before our return flight we had a little time to kill so we stopped at Yas Mall since so many people have told us about it. It’s on Yas Island, a new development. Wasn’t really in the mood to buy anything, but gathered more ideas for upcoming purchases.

Note: Prices are a little more than you’d expect for certain brands. For instance, we can’t get Kiehl’s in Riyadh so it’s has to be ordered online. They had it at a Yas but it was ridiculously expensive. The French skincare products I purchased were also more expensive, but those are much tougher to find online and take forever to ship (from France, to US, to Riyadh) so I paid the premium for convenience. With any place we go we do our research on product prices, exchange rates and VAT to make sure we’re not getting gouged.

TRANSPORTATION

Taxis are very reasonably priced and Careem (Uber of the region) is easily available. If you’ve got kids it’s a good idea just to rent a car. They’re affordable and make getting around so much easier.